A Rock, a Queen, and a Trend
How Scottish Pebble Jewelry Became an Enduring Victorian Era Legacy
In 1837 a young Queen Victoria began a reign that would enthrall the country and forever alter British culture. The ways in which this coronation would affect the jewelry industry are vast and endlessly fascinating. Trends would be created that continue to sparkle and endure … But today we want to bring your focus to the unintentionally humble agate, the multi-colored star of one of Queen Victoria’s early trends. Scottish Agate Jewelry; also known as Scottish Pebble Jewelry, or simply Pebble Jewelry.
Early in her reign Victoria developed an enduring love, not only for her princely beau, but for Scotland as well. She and Albert first visited Scotland in September of 1842, only two years after their marriage, and a short five years after her coronation. It appears she was only the second monarch in memory to have traveled to Scotland with leisure in mind. Both queen and consort seem to have instantly found ease and comfort in Scotland, and by 1852 lands were purchased and Balmoral Castle construction was underway. This would become Queen Victoria’s favorite refuge. It is said she and Albert so loved Scottish custom they ate porridge for breakfast and dressed their children in tartan. And it was the glorious highlands that truly held their ardor. And it is the beautiful rocks that came from this mountainous range that have inspired our current obsession. Victoria’s love of Scotland created many enduring trends in fashion, but our absolute favorite is of course, the jewelry! We have recently released a collection of these incredible “Pebble” pieces……
First let’s clarify; Agate is a type of calcedony, typically in its banded form. Calcedony itself is a microcrystalline type of quartz, meaning it is formed of crystals so tiny they are invisible to the naked eye. The common banded agate appearance is created by alternating layers of mineral deposits, and its wide variety of colors is due to these various minerals as well. It is extremely hard and durable, making it both an excellent and difficult choice for jewelry. While it is referred to as “agate” jewelry many stones from the quartz family were used. Chalcedony, and quartz are broad terms with complex scientific classifications, more easily recognized as: agate (in its many forms), amethyst, citrine, cairngorms (a smoky orange brown quartz indigenous to Scotland), carnelian, bloodstone, jasper, citrines, and granite. All these stones found favor in these wonderful pieces. Eventually we would see Malachite imported from Siberia, through Germany, fall into the mix as well.
Though it is perhaps hard for us to recognize looking back, a great cultural shift was happening during the Victorian Era. A young queen partnering for love inspired an age of romanticism. The industrial revolution made way for lower cost jewelry. New ideals on science, romanticism, and naturalism gave way to new trends. Naturalism brought to light whole new world of gemstones and shapes to be sought out. And Scotland was the perfect place to blend this naturalism and romanticism, with jewelry the perfect medium. Using classic Scottish and Celtic motifs and a vast array of naturally occurring local agates, Scottish jewelers began creating Jewels for the public who wanted to emulate the Queen in her love of Scotland.
Now, Scottish Pebble Jewelry was not new exactly. Classic Scottish jewels and gemstones date back to the iron age, but during Victoria’s reign Scotland and all its beautiful traditional arts found a new popularity that would become an international obsession.
Early Victorian Pebble Jewelry followed a classic Scottish style with a medieval revival look, borrowing from both Celtic and Scottish themes. Annular (round) and penannular (open circle), as well target shaped plaid brooches were seen. Miniature dirks (some with removable knives!) became popular. And the ever-romantic Endless Knot, while certainly a symbol of an enduring love the many tangles and loops of Celtic knots are also thought to hold spells that can enchant or protect the wearer. As the popularity of these Pebble Jewels grew more English motifs began to be integrated into the designs: snakes, buckles, anchors, arrows, crosses, stars, and (oddly) umbrellas! Though perhaps the umbrella is not so odd, the rainy isles are quite romantically dreary, are they not? And parasols were de rigueur. Here we have simply named a few of the possible themes, you will find this barely scratches the surface of the Victorian imagination!
A deeply popular motif during the last half of the 1800’s was the sailors cross. Often a pin to be worn as a wish for safe return, the sailors cross looked like an anchor topped with a T-bar. The cross portion itself was often agate while the tips and bottoms were made of intricately engraved silver.
Scottish Pebble Jewels glorious colors, timeless motifs, and incredible craftsmanship will truly never go out of style.
Sources
- Victorian Jewelry: Unexplored Treasures by Ginny Redington Dawes and Corinne Alster Davidov
- https://www.minerals.net/mineral/agate.aspx
0 comments