Glossary of Terms and Techniques

     

A

 

Abalone

            A shiny colorful shell commonly used in silver jewelry in the 20^th century.

 

Acid Cut Back

            Acid cutback describes a method used to create designs upon art glass. The glass item is coated in an acid-resistant resin, a design is carved into the resin, then the piece is immersed in acid. The acid eats away at the exposed glass, leaving the design permanently etched into the glass. 

 

Acrostic

            A message spelled out using the first letter of the gemstone such as:

REGARD; Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond

DEAREST; Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz

Found on lockets, brooches, bracelets and most commonly rings, these pieces usually date from the 18^th and 19^th centuries.

There are historical jewels that have names spelled out using the acrostic method, most notably Empress Josephine’s bracelets with her daughter’s names and pieces by Carl Fabergé.

 

Adamant

            An ancient name for a diamond. Derived from the Greek adamas meaning unconquerable.

 

Adularescence

           The milky bluish-white glow that appears in Moonstones.

 

Agate

           A variety of quartz that has variegated colors lending itself nicely for cameos. Banded agate was used to make beautiful beads and gems when cut and polished.

 

Aigrette

           A jewel made to be worn on a hat to either hold a feather or in the form of a feather. The name comes from the type of feathers popularly worn on headdresses in the 17^th century, Egret feathers.

 

Ajouré

           An openwork pattern made by cutting holes in metal, usually referred to when referencing the cut outs made at the back of a gem setting.

      

Albert Chain

           A watch chain in gold or silver made to hold a watch and be worn with a vest. One end has a swivel hook and the other a T-bar.

 

Alloy

           Base metals added to other metals to change the appearance or malleability of the precious metal it is added to.

 

Almandine

           A deep red variety of Garnet, frequently cut in Cabochon form and hollowed in a curve at the back to lighten the color, the cabochon cut of this Almandine Garnet is called a Carbuncle.

 

Aluminum

           A lightweight silver-white metal. When first discovered Aluminum was considered more valuable than gold. In the mid 1800s Jewels were crafted of Aluminum for Empress Eugénie and displayed at the Great Exposition of 1851 in London.

 

Amber

           Fossilized resin from an extinct variety of pine tree. Light in weight, and warm to the touch. When rubbed vigorously against fabric it creates static electricity and when rubbed against the heel of your hand until warm you can smell the scent of pine. Amber comes in a wide range of colors, shades of yellow, orange, reds, browns, and almost black, there is also a rare white amber, referred to as bone amber. There are two types of amber, Sea Amber which washes up on shores in several places in the world, and Pit Amber which is pit mined.

 

Amulet

           A jewel of any type that is believed to have special magical, energetic or protective qualities.

 

Ankh

           An Egyptian symbol of life in the shape of a cross with a loop resting on the arms.

 

Anklet

           An adornment made to be worn around the ankle, most commonly made of a chain or links with bells.

 

Anniversary Band

           A band with diamonds set in a row across the front, a traditional gift for wedding anniversaries.

 

Archaeological Revival

           Jewelry made in the 19^th century inspired by Archaeological discoveries. The most popular being Etruscan Revival most famously made by Castellani and Giuliano in Italy.

 

Archers Ring

           A ring worn by an archer on the thumb.

 

Armlet

           A bracelet-like jewel made for the upper arm.

 

Articulated

           Having moveable parts, such as a dangling earring, or a hinged wiggling fish pendant.

 

Assaying

           Testing the purity of precious metal, required in Great Britain since the 14^th century.

 

Asscher Cut

           A square cut with cut corners, the design was developed by Joseph Asscher in 1902. When looking straight down on an Asscher cut you will see an X shape made by converging facets centering toward the culet on the bottom center of the stone. When viewing the stone from its side, you will see that the crown is higher than that of other diamond shapes. It is a beautiful cut that was extremely popular in the Art Deco era.

      

Asterism

           Crossing bands of reflected light that create a 6 rayed star-like effect. This can occur in the dome of a sapphire or ruby cabochon.

 

Aurora Borealis

           A rainbow hued finish that was applied to glass and crystal beads which was introduced in 1955 by Swarovski and Dior. It became widely commercially used by multitudes of jewelry manufacturers by the late 1950’s and continued in popularity thru the 1960’s.

 

Austro-Hungarian

           The Austro-Hungarian Empire existed from 1867-1918 and their Jewelers were well known for their Renaissance Revival designs in gilt silver. Often made with a combination of paste and real gems as well as tiny pearls. The backs also beautifully decorated are sometimes enameled.

 

Aventurescence

           A glittery effect caused by light reflecting from small flat inclusions, found in natural gems such as, Aventurine, Sunstone, and Feldspar.

 

B

 

Back Loaders

          Pierced ear wires that are inserted into your earlobe from the back. The wires are hinged in the middle at the back and they clasp by clicking into place at the top front. Common pre- 1860.

 

Baguette

           Introduced by Cartier in 1912, a baguette is a rectangular gem cut, named for the long loaf of French bread. This cut can be tapered or straight.

 

Bakelite

           A hard plastic based on the chemical combination of phenol and formaldehyde patented in 1909 by Belgian chemist Dr. Leo Baekeland. Used to make fun and colorful jewelry, by the 1930’s it became quite popular. When rubbed vigorously on the heel of the hand it produces a burnt electric small.

 

Band

A band is a simple finger ring fashioned from a thin strip of (usually) metal shaped into a circle. A band may be plain or embellished with carving, engraving, set stones or a variety of finishes.

 

Bandeau

           A forehead ornament in the form of a narrow band popular in the mid 1800s and again in the 1920s.

 

Bangle

           A type of bracelet that is rigid and either slips over the hand or opens with a clap and hinge. Popularly worn in stacks on the wrist.

 

Bar Pin

           A brooch in the shape of a straight bar.

 

Baroque

           A period of time from the 17^th century to the first half of the 18^th century when dramatic highly ornate styles flourished. Originating in Italy, the design aesthetic quickly spread across Europe. So bold and unique was the style of the period that it became a widely used descriptor for elaborate and ornate designs.

 

Baroque Pearl

           A pearl, natural or cultured, in an irregular shape.

 

Barrette

           A decorative and functional jewel to be worn in the hair.

 

Basalt

           A dark grey or black Volcanic rock used in Egyptian Jewelry and in cylinder seals from Greece and ancient intaglios. Josiah Wedgewood created an imitation that became commercially available in 1769 quickly becoming popular in fobs, seals and other jewels as well as dishes and decorative items.

 

Basket Setting

            A type of ring setting that holds the center stone in a decorative and pierced head, when the ring is held upside down from the back of the band it resembles a 1920s flower basket.

 

Berlin Iron

           Articles of Cast Iron Jewelry, mostly in delicate lacy designs, were made principally in Germany in the early 19^th century. The bulk of the Iron Jewelry that was crafted in Berlin was made circa 1813-15; when a shortage of precious metals as a result of Napoleonic wars led to a campaign to collect precious metals from the populace. The state offered its citizens iron for gold and its popularity led to fashionable Iron Jewelry.  

 

Biconical Bead

           A bead in the shape of 2 cones attached at their wider base.

  

Birthstone

           A gemstone(s) assigned to a particular month. See the in-depth blog here hyper link to birthstone blog  

 

Biwa Pearls

          A type of non-nucleated cultured pearl produced after WW2 using freshwater mussels in Lake Biwa in Japan. They are naturally brown or salmon in color but usually bleached to a bright white. They have a crinkly surface and are oval in shape which leads to them occasionally being referred to as rice crispy pearls.

 

Black Dot

            A black spot of pitch that was applied to the open culet of a paste stone in the 18^th century, the theory is that enhancing the paste stone in this way made it appear more like a diamond.

 

Blister Pearl

            A type of pearl cut away from the nacreous interior of a pearl oyster shell, thus it has a flat underside.

 

Bloom

            An effect that can occur on gold when kept in certain environments. Temperature and storage with other jewelry comprised of various metals can cause “bloom” to occur on gold surfaces after an extended period of time. Bloom appears as a rainbow iridescence across the surface of the affected gold, I find it quite beautiful.

 

Bloomed Gold

           Referring to a technique used in the late 19^th century. An item made of karat gold would be dipped in hydrochloric acid removing the alloys in the gold from the surface and leaving a high 22k gold finish with a bright yellow tone and lovely matte finish.

 

Bog Wood/Bog Oak

            The wood of trees preserved in peat marshes, mostly oak. It is a shiny ebony color when polished and crafted into jewelry, and was used as a less expensive alternative to Jet in the Victorian Era.

 

Bohemian Garnets

              When made in the mid 19^th century, jewelry set with these dark red Bohemian Garnets was considered costume jewelry. Crafted of jewelers brass, sometimes gilded with gold, and set with rose cut foiled back garnets, this jewelry was very popular in the Victorian era. Highly collectible and wonderfully wearable even in the 21^st century these jewels are found in elaborate floral swag necklaces, earrings, elaborate brooches and occasionally rings.

 

Bolo Tie

               A stylized necktie popular in the Southwest US. Braided leather, with silver ends called aiguillettes, is fitted with a decorative silver piece usually set with a semi-precious stone, most often turquoise. The decorative panel is backed with a lever mechanism to raise and lower the panel on the leather.

 

Bombé

               A style of ring with a domed top, they can be simply precious metal, set with a smattering of stones, or my favorite paved with gems and or diamonds.

 

Book Locket

               A Locket in the shape of a book, sometimes with “pages” to hold photos.

 

Bracelet

            A Bracelet is a jewel made to wear on your wrist. There are several types of bracelets.

            Bangle

            A rigid bracelet, they can have a hinge and clasp or be made to slip over the hand.

            Clamper

            A rigid bracelet made in 2 pieces with a hinge at the back so that it “clamps” on the wrist, first made popular in the 1920s.

            Cuff

            A rigid bracelet with an opening in the back, it is maneuvered over the side of the wrist and worn with the decorative side to the front. Some early cuff bracelets have the opening in the front and a curve to the back.

            Link

            A bracelet made of pieces which are attached with movement between the panels, links, or pieces.

 

Bright Cut

            A technique of cutting and polishing metal for a brilliant shiny look.

 

Briolette

            A gemstone cut in a drop shape and covered in facets for a lovely sparkle.

 

Brooch

           A jewel with a pin fastening on the reverse.

 

Bronze

           An alloy of copper, about 97%, and tin. It corrodes quickly but is great for casting.

 

Brush Finish

           A matte finish most commonly used on wedding bands.

 

Buff Top

           A gem cut with Its top en cabochon, while its underside is faceted, creating a unique glittering glow.

 

Bugle Bead

           A style of bead in a long hollow cylindrical shape, most commonly black glass, made in England beginning in the late 16^th century.

 

C

 

Cabochon

           A stone cut with a smooth domed surface and no facets.

 

CAD

           An acronym for Computer Aided Design.

 

Cairngorm

            A gemstone that is yellowish brown. Originally found in the mountains of Scotland of the same name and used in traditional Scottish Jewelry.

       

Cameo

           A carving in relief. Most cameos are profiles of a face, a famous man, a beautiful woman, a god or goddess, but they can be of any subject. The earliest cameos were Hardstone, banded agates, carving thru the color layers to reveal the different layers and creating an image that stands out from its background. Shell cameos became quite fashionable in the 19^th century and were a staple souvenir from a Grand Tour stop in Italy. Cameos can be found in a multitude of materials, Amber, Coral, Ivory, Precious Gems, Agates, and even Plastics.

 

Cameo Habillé

           (French) (Dressed) A Cameo wearing applied jewels in precious metal and gems, usually tiny diamonds. Popular from the mid 1800s to the 1920s.

 

Cannetille

           (French) A thin wirework style that creates a filigree-like design. First seen in France in 1780 and then in England in 1790 this style of delicate yet elaborate gold work was destined to change the balance of gold to gemstones in jewelry design for decades to come. Cannetille work consists of intricate coils of wires in rosettes and spirals atop a filigree background. The name Cannetille comes from a type of embroidery using very fine twisted silver and gold threads.

 

Cape

           An old-school term used to describe a diamond with a warm, yellowish color. This term originated when Diamonds from the Cape of Africa were introduced to the commercial market, referencing their warmer hue compared to the diamonds from Brazil, which had previously been the staple of the diamond supply. Diamonds from the Cape of Africa were referred to simply as “Cape”, and eventually the term evolved to describe any diamond of a certain color range and is still used today when discussing 19^th century diamonds in this yellowish color range.

 

Carat

           The weight unit for a diamond, gemstone, or pearl. Used in the UK for Gold fineness as well.

 

Carbuncle

           An Almandine Garnet that is cut as a Cabochon.

          

Casein Plastic

           A plastic made using milk proteins, invented in 1897 and made popular as a jewelry material in the 20^th century.

 

Catalin

           A brand name for a plastic that was developed and used in the 1920’s and 30’s popular for its natural clear color that could be dyed in the bright hues of the period.

 

Cats Eye Chrysoberyl

           A gemstone that ranges in color from golden yellow to yellowish green and displays chatoyancy in the form of a single band resembling a cats-eye.  

 

Celluloid

           An early costume jewelry material made from plant fiber cellulose, invented in the US in 1868, first commercial use 1875.

 

Chalcedony

           A variety of quartz that naturally occurs in pale blue or gray. It is porous and can be easily dyed and often is.

 

Channel Setting

           A style of setting gems in a row, held in place using metal to either side of the row.

 

Charm

           Commonly refers to a small decorative and often figural pendant most often worn on a bracelet. The more historic term refers to an item worn for good luck or as a ward against illness or evil.

 

Charm Bracelet

           A link-style bracelet made specifically to hold charms.

 

Chatelaine

           A Ladies functional jewel. Worn during the day the decorative top attached to a belt or girdle and held multiple hooks from which were suspended various objects. Chatelaines were highly personalized and could hold whatever was needed by the wearer, small ivory tablets and pencil, a little purse to hold a few coins, a watch with key and seal fob. There were even sewing Chatelaines with scissors, tape measure, thimble and needle case. A housekeeper would have a less decorative version holding the keys to the valuables she was in charge of such as spices, sugar, tea, and silver. Chatelaines came into use in England during the 17^th century and held their popularity until about 1830 when they became simply utilitarian and ceased being an elaborate ornament to display status.

 

Chatelet    

           A brooch with a hook on the back from which to suspend a locket, watch, or pendant.   

 

Chatoyancy

           An effect in some translucent stones when cut as a cabochon and viewed at certain angles and light. The effect is light moving and undulating across the surface.

 

Chelsea Toys

          (French) Refers to small objects made at the Chelsea Porcelain factory in the late 1700s. They are famous for their small novelty items along with fobs and some articles of jewelry.

 

Chinoiserie

           Refers to items of decoration and adornment made with Chinese influence in European countries post 17^th century.

                

Choker

           A style of necklace that sits close to the throat.

 

Cinnabar

           Cinnabar is a mercury sulfide mineral. Because of its bright red color, it has been used as a pigment and carved into jewelry and ornaments in many parts of the world for thousands of years. Is cinnabar dangerous to wear? Mercury is definitely toxic. However, mineral experts argue that the mercury contained in cinnabar is not very “bioavailable," meaning that it is hard for the mercury in cinnabar to be absorbed into the human body. If you choose to wear cinnabar jewelry it is recommended that you do not heat it, wash in it, or sleep in it. Or eat it, I suppose.

 

Clarity Grade

           The grading scale used to describe the clarity of a polished and cut diamond.

 

Clasp

            A clasp is a mechanism used to secure a jewel upon the wearer’s person. It may attach the ends of a necklace or bracelet together, encircling the wearer’s neck, wrist, etc., or it may hold closed the pin of a brooch. Throughout history many different types of clasps have been used which makes them helpful clues when dating vintage pieces. Some clasps feature mechanical devices such as small springs or tube hinges, while others employ very simple means of closure like a hook and eye. Clasps may be decorative or purely functional.

            Bracelets:

            Fold over clasp

            A rectangular or square that opens on one end to hold a bar from the other end thus forming a bracelet.

            Spring Ring/ Bolt Ring

            The most common form for bracelets and necklaces, it has a spring loaded pull back function which retracts a portion of the circular clasp and allows for a solid ring to be captured by it thus creating a secure closure.

            Tension Clasp

            A tongue with a push down bar fits into a corresponding space on the other end cut exactly to fit it thus using the natural spring of the folded metal of the tongue of the clasp to hold it in place.

            Toggle Clasp

            A straight bar and usually a circle, although any open shape that accommodates the bar works. The bar is on one end and the open element on the other the bar goes thru and when it straightens out it creates closure.

            Brooches:

            Trombone Clasp

            A trombone clasp, also known as a push-pull clasp, is a brooch fastener that was patented in Britain in 1850. Typically, the trombone clasp is not seen in American pieces prior to 1890. This clasp is comprised of two cylindrical tubes, one nestled inside the other. The inner tube is pushed into the outer to secure the brooch pin, then pulled out to release it.

            C-Clasp

            A C-clasp is one of the earliest types of brooch fastener, so named because it is shaped like the letter “C.” The C-clasp is the simplest of catches, a wire worked into a “C” shaped curve that uses tension created by trapped fabric to hook the brooch pin in place.

Safety Clasp

            “Safety clasp” refers to a variety of brooch fasteners designed to close a brooch pin with greater security than a C-clasp. The most common type of safety clasp came into usage during the late 1920s, and features two adjoining C-clasps, one that remains stationary and a second that swivels to secure and release the brooch pin.

            Necklaces:

            Box Clasp

            A rectangular or square that opens on one end to hold a bar from the other end thus forming a closure.

            Lobster Clasp

            This clasp functions similar to that of a spring ring and gets its name from its shape.

            Spring Ring/Bolt Ring

            The most common form for bracelets and necklaces, it has a spring loaded pull back function which retracts a portion of the circular clasp and allows for a solid ring to be captured by it thus creating a secure closure.

 

Clip On

          A type of earring back made for non-pierced ears. The Clip attaches to the earring with a small metal dome and has a hinge at the bottom to keep the earring secure on the earlobe. Patented in 1934.

 

Cocktail Ring

           A style of ring made popular in the mid 20^th century, big fancy and shiny meant to be noticed.

 

Collet Setting

           A style of securing a stone used in the 1700’s and early 1800’s. Similar to the later bezel setting but instead of having the same thickness from top to bottom a bezel has a collet which thins as it moves up the gem giving a tapered look, better showing the shape of the stone. The gems of this era were closed at the back and foiled and the smoothing of the collet tightly to the gems girdle helped keep it airtight aiding in keeping the foil from tarnishing and darkening the look of the stone.

 

Comet Jewelry

            Halley’s comet blazed across the sky in 1758 and the excitement of it caused such a stir that jewels commemorating its passage became all the rage. It returned in 1835 and again inspired jewelers to create comet jewelry. Two comets made appearances in the early 1900’s, comet Daniel streaked thru the skies in 1909, and then Halley again in 1910.

 

Conch Pearl

           A pearl created by a queen conch shell, it is pinkish or white colored.

 

Copal

           The oldest known substitute for Amber, it is a tree resin that is 100-1000 years old and often made into beads. The color is reminiscent of butterscotch.

 

Copper

           A reddish soft metal which oxidizes into a green verdigris.

 

Coral

           A hard organic substance that is the skeleton of certain marine invertebrates. Naturally found in white, pale pink and a darker orange color sometimes referred to as oxblood coral, the most desirable color in antique jewelry. It is over harvested and in danger in modern times and most of what you find will be of poor quality and dyed. We do not sell modern coral, only pre 1970s.

 

Costume Jewelry

           This term includes a variety of jewelry and eras. From base metal to silver, set with paste, rhinestones, marcasite, glass and or semiprecious stones. There is a wide variety of quality and value.

 

Cross

           A devotional and or decorative item. The cross while seen as a Christian symbol has had many periods of fashionable popularity. To discuss a few, the Victorian period made large ornate crosses fashionable, In the Edwardian and Deco period fancy filigree crosses in Platinum and White gold were fashionable, and then again in the 1980’s and 90’s Madonna took it a step further and not only made crosses fashionable but rosaries as well.

 

Crossover Ring

           A ring made with two gems crossed over in the front, a popular engagement ring style usually made with diamonds. The French version is often called Moi et Toi, while in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries these were also in the crossover style with the gems at an angle to one another while they are modernly made with 2 stones sitting next to each other.

 

Crown

           The crown of a gemstone or diamond encompasses the facets between the girdle and the table of the gem. 

 

Crystal

           Several things are referred to simply as crystal, see Paste, see Rock Crystal, as well as Lead Crystal.

 

Cubic Zirconia

            The diamond simulant of the 20^th century. Commercially marketed in 1976 and popular into the 21^st century.

 

Cuff Bracelet

            A Rigid metal bracelet with an opening at the reverse so it can easily be put on the wrist. Some early cuff bracelets open at the front.

 

Cuff Links

        The earliest cuff links were buttons joined in the center of the backs, their purpose to hold closed the cuffs of a dress shirt. By the late 1900’s the majority of cufflinks began to be fashioned with only one decorative side and a rigid curved bar connecting the front and the back, they also became more available to all economic classes.

 

Culet

           The base of a faceted gemstone or Diamond. Modern gems have a pointed or closed culet, older gems have varying degrees of an “open” or flat cut culet which can be seen thru the table or of the gem or diamond.

 

Cultured Pearls

            First developed in 1892 by Mikimoto, cultured pearls are made by manually inserting an irritant into a pearl oyster to force it to create nacre around the irritant thus creating a pearl. In 1908 Mikimoto patented the spherical cultured pearl. The quality and value of a cultured pearl is directed by several things, the shape, the irritant used-resulting in the layers of nacre, the color, and the luster are just a few.

 

Cushion Cut

           A style of diamond & gem cutting popular in the 1800’s with a distinctive cushion shape. Not really square or round, I think of them as squoval like a couch cushion.

 

Cut Down Collet

           A collet setting which is cut back in intervals to create strips to reinforce and hold the gem, popular in the 18^th century.

 

Cut Steel

           A popular material for jewelry making from the mid 1700’s to the late 1800’s. Made by faceting steel rivets and fastening them to a frame with close set holes to give a pave look, the result is a lovely dark shimmer. All manner of jewels were made using this technique which originated in England but soon spread to France and across Europe. This style became so popular that imitations were made by stamping the pattern into metal using machines from the new industrial revolution, the copies can be easily discerned by looking at the back of the jewel, if you can see the rivets than they are real cut steel.

            

Cylinder Seal

            A cylinder shape with a hole piercing it from north to south and images carved on it so when it is rolled on clay it forms a tableau or message. There are examples from Mesopotamia from the 4^th century BCE. These were commonly worn suspended on thongs which are threaded thru the center hole.

 

Czechoslovakian Jewelry

             Often referred to as Czech Jewelry or Czecho Deco, Czechoslovakia created some of the most fabulous fashion jewelry available in the early 20^th century. The combination of their skill with Art Glass and cold enamel techniques in combination with their skill making jewelers brass settings in wonderful detail made their jewelry popular.

 

D

 

Day and Night Earrings

           Practical and pretty day and night earrings are so named because the bottom drop of the earring can be removed and the top can be worn alone for a more daytime look. Popular at the end of the 18^th century and into the 19^th this style encompassed all styles from diamond to torpedo.

 

Demantoid Garnet

           A green Garnet found in the Ural Mountains noted for their horsetail inclusions.

 

Demi Parure

            A matching suite of two or three pieces of jewelry.

 

Dendrite

            A feature in some gemstones, that resemble a branching tree, ferns, and moss. Most commonly in moss agate and moss opal.

 

Deposé

            A registered mark used in France to indicate items which have been patented.

 

Diadem

           An ornamented band worn above the brow.

 

Dichroic/Dichroism

           Colored gemstones having the property of double refracting showing two or more colors according to the direction in which they are viewed by transmitted light.

 

Die Stamping

           The process of making a relief pattern on metal by pressure using a die. A piece of metal is enclosed between a two-part die and extreme pressure is applied transferring the design to the metal sheet.

           

Dog Collar

           A wide ornamented band of pearls, gems, or even a ribbon worn around the neck like a collar.

 

Double Clip

           A style of brooch popular in the Art Deco Period and the Retro Movement. Two dress clips can be worn separately or attached to a frame and worn as a single brooch.

 

Doublet

           A composite stone made by fusing two stones. The combination of a less expensive stone or glass fused at the girdle with the more expensive gem it is imitating is the most common example of a doublet. There are a few ways to tell if a stone is a doublet, the stone does not have to be unset to use these methods, hold the gem up to a light source and look at it from the side, you can often see the join or color discrepancy with the naked eye but you can always use a loupe if needed. Another way to determine if a gem is a doublet is to immerse the stone in a dish of water and it quite easily makes the join visible.

 

Dress Clip

            A design specially made to be worn at the neckline of a dress, most commonly made in pairs, the back has a flat wide sharp pronged hinged clip that tightly grasps the fabric. Developed in 1937.

 

Duette

           A double dress clip patented by Coro the costume jewelry company. Two dress clips fit into a frame designed specifically for the pair.

 

E

 

Eagle Mark

           A hallmark required for sterling silver jewelry starting in 1945 in Mexico. This mark can aid in the identification and research of Taxco jewelry as each Jewelry maker was issued a specific number which is in the center of the Eagle mark.

 

Ear Bob, Ear Drop

          A small pendant for the ears that is static on or suspended from a hinged or French wire.

 

Ear Cuff

          A curved jewel that hugs the curve of the ear.

 

Earring

          A decorative jewel meant to be worn in the ear, as with a pierced earring, or on the ear as in an earring for non-pierced ears.

 

Egyptian Faience

           A material made in Egypt since before 3000 BCE. Ground quartz fused with the use of alkali. Covered in a glaze, made using a similar process but colored most commonly in green and blue hues. Not technically “faience” since the body isn’t pottery and the glaze holds no tin oxide. Many types of Egyptian items were made using this technique, Ushabti, beads, scarabs and grave goods.

 

Electrum

          A natural alloy of silver and gold, a pale-yellow color, the metal was used in Egypt and Asia Minor.

 

Embossing

          A technique of impressing a design from the reverse of the metal, similar to repoussé but done with a machine.

 

Emerald Cut

          A style of cutting a precious gemstone. The table and contour of the gem is square or rectangular with chamfered corners, the sides are step cut. The cut, with the large flat table, emphasizes the color rather than the brilliance of the stone.

 

Enamel

         Enamel refers to a kind of colored glass that is fused to metal, glass or stone through the use of heat. It may be used to accent and embellish a jewel’s metal, or it may be used to create the jewel’s central focus. Enameling is an ancient technique. Its advent dates to around the 13th century B.C., and was developed contemporaneously by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Celts, Georgians and Chinese. The two oldest and most common enameling techniques are cloisonné and champlevé. While cloisonné and champlevé are the earliest and most popular types of enameling, over the centuries other styles and techniques have developed such as basse-taille, plique à jour, Limoges and Grisaille. All techniques result in beautiful, often brilliantly colored, patterns or images.

Cloisonné Enamel

Cloisonné enamel is produced by soldering delicate metal strips together to form a pattern of tiny cells which are filled with powdered glass and heated to temperatures between 750 degrees and 850 degrees C. The heat melts the glass into a durable, vitreous coating which is polished to a shiny, color-saturated surface.

Champlevé Enamel

Champlevé enamel is produced when delicate chisels are used to gouge a pattern of cells into a metal surface. The cells are filled with powdered glass and heated to temperatures between 750 degrees and 850 degrees C. The heat melts the glass and, once polished, the surface of the enamel lies flush with the metal and creates an effect resembling inlay.

 En Plein Enamel

 En Plein enamel is produced when a smooth layer of enamel is applied to the surface of the article. When this type of enameling is applied in reserved areas it is called en plein sur fond reserve, much used by Carl Fabergé.

 

Engagement Ring

              A finger ring given to symbolize the intention of marriage, similar to the earliest version which was referred to as a betrothal ring. Such rings have been used since Roman times when they were referred to as Anulus Pronubus, which translates to bridal ring, and made of iron.

 

Engine Turning

Engine turning is a form of machine engraving that employs a specialized lathe known as a rose engine to engrave ornamental patterns. This form of engraving may be identified by the extreme precision of its beautiful geometric designs. Engine-turned engraving is most commonly found on the backs of pocket watches and lockets.

 

Engraving

            The technique of incising a design on the surface of a stone or metal.

 

Epaulet

            A Shoulder ornament worn on a military uniform usually made of metal threads and terminating in fringe. Worn as a fashion in the 1980’s made popular by Michael Jackson.

 

Era

            An era is a period of time that is distinguished by particular characteristics or events. A vintage or antique jewel is associated with the era in which it was created. These are generally historical eras, measured by the reigns of British monarchs and identified with specific cultural and artistic movements. We may determine the era a jewel hails from by examining its construction, materials and, where possible, hallmarks.

Georgian Era

The Georgian era spans from 1714 to 1830, encompassing the reigns of George I, George II, George III and George IV on the British throne. This period saw far reaching cultural change with the Enlightenment, the French and American Revolutions, expansion of the British Empire and the beginning of the Industrial Revolution. The Georgian era saw corresponding developments in art, literature and architecture. While the word “Georgian” plainly alludes to British historical events, references to the Georgian era do not apply exclusively to things British, particularly when used to describe the arts; for example, a Georgian jewel would date to the Georgian era but would not necessarily have been made in Britain.

            Jewelry of the Georgian era was entirely handcrafted as mechanization and mass production had not been introduced. Each stone was cut, all metal was worked by jewelers’ hands in painstaking, labor intensive processes. This craftsmanship can be seen in the incomparable character and attention to detail possessed by every Georgian jewel. Georgian jewelry is notable for its exquisite metalworking; gold and silver were worked using methods such as repoussé and cannetille. Diamonds were particularly popular, especially early in the era, and colored gemstones like sapphires, rubies, garnets, amethysts, topaz and aquamarine were used to beautiful effect. Gems were most often cut into rose cuts, table cuts and cabochons, and were typically secured in enclosed settings and backed by foil. Foiling was a method used to increase the stone’s scintillation but also increased the jewel’s delicacy, as contact with moisture may tarnish the foil and darken the stone. Organic materials, pearls, coral, etc., were also favored. Lovely jewels were made from materials not commonly considered to be precious; sometimes, as with paste (leaded glass), simulating precious gems, or showcasing their own unexpected beauty as with cut steel or iron. Pinchbeck, an alloy that closely resembles high karat gold, was quite popular.

Fashionable Georgian ladies wore riviere necklaces and convertible pendeloque (or day-to-night) earrings. Napoléon Bonaparte’s fascination with ancient cameos sparked a fashion trend; when supply failed to meet demand, cameo medallions of Tassie glass came into vogue. The practical yet decorative chatelaine and its accompanying devices, keys, thimbles, embroidery scissors, etc., could be found at the waist of every stylish homemaker.

Victorian Era

The Victorian era spans from Queen Victoria’s ascension to the British throne in 1837 to her death in 1901. The Victorian era was marked by contrasting attitudes. Sentimentality and romanticism prevailed early in the period, while the later Victorian era saw advances in science and industry occur concurrent to a rising interest in mysticism and the supernatural.

Art Nouveau

The Art Nouveau period of design began in France in the 1890’s and was widely embraced by 1900 eventually losing popularity with the onset of WW1 in 1914. Inspired by the desire to move away from the industrial and heavy design of the Victorian period and embrace fluidity, movement and a more natural beauty. Women with flowing hair, flowers, and whiplash lines were the most common themes in jewelry design of the period.

Art & Crafts Movement

“Richness does not entail luxury nor simplicity cheapness” This sentence encompasses what the movement communicated with its expression of design. To put firm beginning and ending dates on this influential design era is difficult and debatable, so let’s say the early years of the 20^th century. Arising from the Art Nouveau ideal of moving away from machine-made art and design to embrace a simple life of creating and celebrating Art and ideas. Truly a lifestyle as well as a design movement the artists of this era embraced cultural ideals as well as artistic ones, often producing their art in a communal setting. The jewelry that arose from this period and movement is beautiful in its simplicity and conceptual in a way never seen before. The Jewelers embraced beauty and process over intrinsic value, therefore some of the loveliest pieces from this period are crafted in silver or copper with ethereal enamels and semi-precious gems.

Edwardian Era

The Edwardian era spans from King Edward’s ascension to the British throne in 1901 to his death in 1910. This period in design may be named after King Edward but the Jewelry fashion was all about Queen Alexandra. She favored wide “Dog Collar” chokers and elaborate lacy Platinum jewels. The invention of the oxyacetylene torch, in 1900, made the use of Platinum in Jewelry possible on a commercial scale, fueling the Edwardian style of lace-like filigree jewels made of Platinum often atop yellow gold. The later was a layover of the use of yellow gold to back the earlier silver jewels as a way to keep the ubiquitous silver tarnish off of clothes. You’ll notice this is the last royally coined era in design.

Art Deco

The Art Deco movement began in France in the mid 1920s as an opposition to the Art Nouveau movement and the corseted repressed society of the Victorians, it lasted into the late 1930’s. The jewels of this period incorporate geometry, channel set square cut gems, and structured design. Modern techniques such as Lab-grown synthetic sapphires and white gold were widely popular during this era. The term is derived from the L’ Exposition Internationale des Artes Décoratifs et Indutriels Modernes held in Paris in 1925.

Retro

Popular in the 1940s and heavily influenced by machinery and WW2, Retro is characterized by its industrial chic. Rectangular watches on bands that look like tank treads, are of course now referred to as Tank watches. Turbogas bracelets in bright 18k yellow gold that look like gas pipes from an industrial site but move with the fluidity of snakes. Big swirly fans of rose gold on a clamp bracelet, masses of rubies and diamonds that seem to make no sense at all, Retro jewelry showcased over the top design that was so modern it often seems cartoonish.

Mid Century Mod/Modernist

This era is just what it seems a joyful embrace of a post-war modern world. Art for Art’s sake and a new modern unique take on Jewelry. Everywhere Artisanal workshops were popping up, San Francisco, Denmark, NYC, Taxco Mexico. Expressing yourself with Fashion became a thing and new design was everywhere. By the 1960’s big bold jewelry was the norm and cocktail parties meant you had to have lots of fabulous rings. Studio Jewelers sold their style and their styles were varied, the one thing they had in common is they were never boring. The bands of rings didn’t always occur in a straight line, stones were set in new and gravity-defying ways. Everything was cool, and everything was fabulous. We’ll stop here for now……

 

Essex Crystal

            Carving done on the back of a crystal in high detail and often embellished with painting.

 

Eternity Band

           A finger ring in the form of a band with gemstones set all the way around it.

 

Étui

       French. A small ornamented case fitted specifically to hold items for a woman’s daily use. Popular in the 17^th -19^th century and made in fanciful shapes. 

 

Etruscan Revival

            One of the many Archeological Revival movements of the 19^th century. SEE GRANULATION.

 

European Cut

             Popular from the 1890s to the mid 1930s. Distinguished by its sparkling brilliant round cut and open culet.

            

Expandable Bracelet

            A bracelet made of identical segments connected in such a way that it can expand over the hand and contract on the wrist.

 

F

 

Facet

           One of the small polished flat surfaces on a cut gemstone or diamond.

 

Fede Ring

           From the Italian for trust. A type of ring often worn as a betrothal/engagement ring and at times just an affectionate gift. Designed as a pair of hands that clasp, the hands sometimes open each attached to a band with a 3^rd band between them often with a heart on it revealed when the hands are opened.

 

Fibula

           An ancient brooch design originally used to fasten garments. A straight pin coiled at one end to become a spring and extended forward to a bow shape made to gather fabric.

 

Figural Jewelry

           Incorporating designs with the figures of animals, and mythical creatures.

 

Findings

           Small metal parts used in jewelry making.

 

Fineness

           The proportion of pure gold or silver in jewelry. -see gold-

          

Filigree

Filigree describes a form of delicate ornamental metalwork that works fine metal wire into a tracery reminiscent of lace. The wire is doubled and twisted together, rolled flat, manipulated into the desired design and soldered into place. Filigree metalwork may employ scrolls, arabesques, floral or foliate designs.

Filigree appears to have originated in Mesopotamia, around 3,000 years B.C. and was used historically in the Near East, Asia and Europe. We see it used most commonly in the Edwardian and Art Deco jewels of the early 20th century. The filigree designs of the 20^th century were most commonly produced using a technique called die-stamping. See die stamping.

 

Finger Ring Anatomy

Head

The head is the part of a finger ring that is elevated from the shoulder and holds a central, focal-point stone or stones. Prongs secure the stone within the head, and the head sits in the mounting. The head’s proportions relate to the size and shape of the stone it may hold and can influence the stone’s appearance; for example, setting a small stone in a large head can cause the stone to appear larger, setting a round stone in a square head can cause the stone to appear square and setting a stone in a head made of white metal can cause the stone to appear whiter.

Prong

            A prong is a small metal hook or tine that is used to set a stone within a jewel’s head or mounting. Typically, four or six prongs are used to clasp a stone in place like a claw.

            Split Prong

            A split prong describes a prong that splits into two or three prongs, creating the effect of double or triple tines securing the stone. Split prongs provide decorative fine detail in the stone’s setting.   

Shank

A shank is the metal band of a finger ring that girds the finger and extends from the ring’s head. Shanks, like bands, come in a variety of styles: flat, half-round, knife-edge, etc. Shank styles are also determined by the shape of the shoulder; for example, when a shank divides in two at the shoulder it is known as a split shank, a shank that widens at the shoulder is known as a tapered shank. The base of the shank is where sizing usually takes place and is also the part of the ring that sees the most wear and is most likely to require repair.

Shoulder

A shoulder is the segment of a finger ring that connects the head to its shank. The shoulder may be unadorned or may feature accent diamond or detailing.

 

Fire Scale

            Fire scale is a rainbow bloom that looks like scales that occurs on Silver and Gold with a high copper alloy content when it is highly heated in the presence of oxygen.

             

Firing

           The process of using a kiln to alter an item by fusing enamel to it.

 

Florentine Finish

           A popular finish of cross-hatching in heavier and lighter lines on the surface of gold, most commonly used on wedding bands.

 

Flush Setting

           A style of setting a flat top stone into a ring where the stone is level with the top of the ring.

 

Fob, Fob Seal, Watch Fob, Fob Chain

           The word “Fob” originally referred to a small pocket, particularly the small pocket below a pants waistband which was originally intended to hold a pocket watch. The use of the word Fob expanded to other things associated with the pocket watch once chains and decorative items became popular to wear with the pocket watch. And now many jewelry items have the word Fob associated with them. The most common of these items is a decorative pendant item attached to the watch chain alongside the watch, these fobs take many forms, the traditional form of an agate, stone, glass or metal seal on the bottom with a plain or elaborately arched top made to attach to a hook is one, a facing intaglio or cameo in an elaborate frame, a spinning double sided agate pendant sometimes with a locket and many more. Fob Chain refers to a watch chain meant to hold a watch and a fob also known as a vest chain, the watch resides in a pocket on the vest, the chain attaches to a buttonhole on the vest, and on the drape of chain between these two hangs the decorative fob.

          

Foil, Foiled, Foil Backed

            A term used to describe a common treatment to Gems and Paste stones, historically used pre1850 to give extra sparkle to gems and diamonds worn in the low light of the eras. Foil, usually silver, is made into a very thin layer and fitted into the setting before the gem is set into the mounting. The foil could be left in its original bright silver color or painted and tinted to enhance the color of the gem or paste. During certain style periods, a black dot would be added to the bottom of the foil to enhance the open culet.

 

Forget Me Not

            In the 1800’s the language of flowers was a very popular way to communicate your feelings. In the language of flowers, blue forget-me-not flowers represented True Love. The flower became so connected to this meaning that eventually even forget-me-not blue symbolized Love. Enamel in the forget-me-not color of light blue, bright blue turquoise, and rows of stylized forget me nots can be found in jewelry from the mid 1800’s to the mid 1900’s.

 

Foxtail Fringe

             Metal, usually karat gold, chain made using interconnected tubes terminating in pointed ends. Used most commonly in Victorian Jewelry and tassels.

 

French Cut

             A square-cut diamond with a cross-shaped crown facet and a step pattern of triangular facets. The mirror-like brilliance of a French cut makes it ideal for accent stones as well as center stones. Used for diamonds and other precious gems. The cut originated in France in the 15^th century, was popular again in the 17^th century and gained great popularity in the early 20^th century.

 

French Jet

            A misnomer, it is not Jet, it is black glass. This term is usually applied to Black Glass jewels made in the Victorian Era.

 

French Wire

           A curved wire from which decorative elements are suspended to be worn as earrings.

 

Full Cut

            A term that refers to a type of melee, meaning it has the full layout of 58 facets like a larger round diamond. See single cut for the other common melee cut.

 

Fur Clip

           A brooch made with two long curved and very sharp pins on the back attached by a hinge to the front of the brooch. The sharp prongs are made to go thru and hold tight to the fur, also effective on heavy coats.

 

G

         

Giardinetti

          Italian. Literally, Little Garden. These little floral arrangements made of gems and precious metals were very fashionable in Western Europe from in the late 17^th thru the 18^th century. These jewels were most commonly brooches or rings in a spray of flowers or a bouquet in a vase.

 

Gilt

            Another term for gilding usually in reference to silver gilt. A thin layer of gold applied to the surface of another metal.

            

Gimmel Ring

            A ring consisting of two or three attached bands that fit perfectly together. Made for secret somethings to be engraved on the flat sides which fit together.

 

Girandole

            A type of earring or brooch with a bow top suspending three gems.

 

Girdle

            The place at the center of a gemstone or diamond separating the crown from the pavilion. The girdle is what sits in the groove of a prong.

 

Glove Ring

            A type of finger ring made to fit over a gloved finger notable for its larger than usual size.

 

Gold

            Gold is a chemical element, a metal that is soft, dense and malleable with a naturally occurring color of rich, saturated yellow. These features make gold an excellent material for working into beautiful ornaments and art objects; however, its softness makes it necessary to alloy gold with other metals to increase hardness and durability. There are numerous reasons for the addition of alloy metals, it influences the color of the gold, it impacts the gold’s melting point and it lowers cost. Add too much alloy, however, and the resulting metal can no longer legally be called gold.

            Gold has been the primary standard of wealth in many cultures since the dawn of civilization. It has been used worldwide throughout history as currency and to back currencies.

            Fineness

The term Fineness denotes the proportion of fine metal to metal alloys found with a specific sample of precious metal. Gold fineness is usually measured in karats; 24 parts, or karats, to a whole. For example, a sample of pure gold in its natural, unadulterated state is 24 parts gold and zero parts alloys, or 24 karat gold. Once alloys are added to the gold, the karat changes. If this sample’s 24 parts is now comprised of 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloys, the gold is 18 karat gold.

Marks

Standard gold fineness and the marks to denote it vary throughout history and countries. I will give the basics here but for a deeper look and how the fineness of a piece can aid in dating and attribution please see my blog on Gold.

            USA

            The common gold marks in the US are marked in karats, with a K following the number such as: 22k, 18k, 14k, 10k.

            Europe

            The common gold marks in most European Countries are marked in parts per 1000 such as: 750 for 18k, 585 for 14k, 375 for 9k.

            United Kingdom/Great Britain

            In the UK you will find a different standard fineness marks for different areas and periods of time, I will give you some basics here but for a deeper look see my blog post on Gold. Unlike other parts of the world where a k is used to denote Karats in the UK a ct is employed. You will find, usually in a row with the other marks, called Hallmarks, either a number followed by ct or a number referencing parts per 1000. These are the most common: 22ct/916, 18ct/750, 15ct/625, 9ct/375. I will blog on the wonders of hallmarks at some point.

             

There are a few unusual marks that you should know and will assist you in buying, you won’t see them often but when you do I want you to know what you’re looking at.

             Portugal

             The only Country that commonly and almost exclusively uses a fineness of 900 gold, this translates to 900 out of 1000 parts which makes it 19.2k. It can be confusing as we are used to 900 being a Platinum mark.

             Hong Kong

             In the case of gold manufactured in Hong Kong it is less about the fineness and more about the placement of the karat mark. You will most commonly find the k in front of the fineness such as, k18.

             

Other “gold” marks to know:

Gilding

A technique used since ancient times to apply a thin layer of gold to the surface of an

item. Some methods used were Oil or Water Gilding, applying a thin layer of gold leaf using an adhesive, and more commonly seen on antique jewelry, Mercury Gilding, applying an amalgam of mercury and gold with a brush and then heating the object to cause the mercury to evaporate. Mercury Gilding was highly dangerous and fell out of use in the 1800’s.

            Gold Filled

A base metal covered in a layer of gold, usually electro plated, most commonly used in the US and required to have a layer of gold equal to at least 1/20^th of the total weight. Commonly marked Gold Filled, 1/20 14k, 10k gold filled, and so on.

Gold Plated

Plating uses an electrical current to deposit a thin layer of precious metal on the surface

of an item.

            Rolled Gold

            A technique first used in the very early 1800s, rolled gold is created by rolling out a sheet of gold until it is paper thin and then fusing it to a sheet of base metal, if gold was desired on both sides this would be done on the top and the bottom. Also, an effective technique for wire, the core of base metal would be inserted into a rolled gold tube and drawn thru a draw plate to the desired diameter. Rolled gold is usually measured in microns of thickness. Also referred to as Gold Sheeted.

 

Gold Nugget Jewelry

            A popular style of jewelry made of natural gold nuggets. The organic and unique shapes of the nuggets make interesting jewelry which was quite popular in the late 19^th and 20^th century.

 

Gold Quartz

           Colorless or white quartz with gold inclusions naturally occurring in it. Found in California and Alaska during their various gold rush eras and popular for use in jewelry of the periods.

 

Gothic Jewelry

            Jewelry made in Continental Europe in the 14^th and 15^th centuries inspired by Gothic Architecture. Enamel and cabochon gemstones were used in conjunction with open designs and human figures, enameling was popular as well. The fashion was to wear these jewels extravagantly, piling it on.

 

Gothic Revival Jewelry

            The revival of Gothic designs for jewelry was fashionable from 1835-50 in England and France Imitating the styles of the Middle Ages, it was also referred to as Romantic Gothic.

 

Granite Jewelry

             Pink and gray granite, native to Scotland, was popular for use in the 19^th century in jewelry, most notably in traditional Scottish jewelry by Rettie in Aberdeen.

            

Granulation

          A process of using tiny spheres of gold as decoration on Jewels. Used as early as the 3^rd millennium BCE, this technique was coined “Etruscan” in the 19^th century. The name derives from the stunning examples of this type of jewelry discovered in Etruscan tombs. This style of jewelry decoration has been revived several times since the early 1800’s, most notably by the Castellani family and carried on by Carlo Giuliano.

 

Guilloché

          When a guilloché design is covered with translucent enamel it is referred to as guilloché enamel. See also, engine

turning.

 

Gunmetal

            Iron coated with a matte black/grey finish, popular in the late 19^th century for many types of jewelry. The most popular forms of gunmetal jewelry were chains (sometimes set with brilliants), lockets, and watch cases.

 

Gutta Percha

           Gutta percha is a natural thermoplastic made from the sap of the gutta percha tree. It was one of the more prominent materials used alongside jet, onyx, bog oak and vulcanite to create the black mourning jewelry popular in the Victorian period. Over time gutta percha fades from a blackish-brown to a pretty khaki color. Introduced in Paris in 1842.

 

Gypsy Ring

           A wide band, usually in Gold, with stones set into the band at the girdle.

 

H

 

Hair Jewelry

           Jewelry incorporating hair in the design. The jewel itself can be woven of hair or the jewel may have decoratively displayed hair under crystal.

 

Half Hoop Ring

           A band with the gems set on the front half.

 

Hallmark

           Marks on jewelry conveying information. The information conveyed can be, the maker, the fineness of the metal, the place it was made, and or the year it was made. The hallmark laws and rules can be quite elaborate in Great Britain, France and other European countries.

 

Hammered Finish

           A hand applied decorative finish used mostly on bands.

 

Halo

           A continuous row(s) of diamonds or gemstones surrounding a center stone.

 

Hand Engraving

           Hand engraving is a process in which a metalsmith uses small chisels (called gravers) to carve, by hand, delicate grooves and designs into a metal surface.

 

Harlequin Jewelry

            A style of jewelry popular in the late 18^th and early 19^th centuries, these jewels display a variety of colored gems. All variety of jewels were made in this style, foil-backed and in cutback collets Harlequin Jewels are a rare and wonderful find.

 

Hat Pin

            A long straight pin topped with a decorative element used to secure a lady’s hat, popular from the 1800s to the 1940s.

 

Head

           The part of an engagement ring that holds the center stone.

 

Head Pin

           A straight wire with either a flattened or decorative end, used for siding beads onto and forming an earring or other decorative drop.

 

Heishe

           Native American. A hand drilled shell or stone bead made by the Santo Domingo people of the Southwest. The beads are strung in strands and grouped together with up to twenty strands to create necklaces. Sometimes strung with other beads and or fetishes in the form of animals.

 

Hummingbird Jewelry

           Jewelry made in the 19^th century using taxidermy-preserved hummingbird heads as the central decorative elements. Most often in the form of a brooch and earrings.

 

I

 

Illusion Setting

           A style of setting a diamond in a ring using shiny polished surfaces to create a bigger look to the diamond.           

 

Intaglio

           A way of decorating a stone by carving in below the surface, when pressed into clay or wax the image is seen in relief. It is the opposite of a Cameo.

 

Iridescence

           The phenomenon of rainbow-like effects on the surface of a stone caused by light.

 

Irradiation

           A laboratory process that uses radiation and heat to change the color of a diamond or gemstone.

 

J

 

Jabot Pin

            A style of pin worn on a Jabot, a ruffled neck scarf popularly worn by men on the front of a shirt or by women on the front of a dress. The pins have a decorative top and a smaller decorative bit thatpushes on the end of the pin covering the point.

 

Jardin

           French. Literally garden, describing the type of inclusion found in Emeralds, sometimes referred to as veils.

 

Jet

          Jet is an organic substance, prehistoric driftwood that has fossilized over the course of 180 million years into lignite coal. It was mostly mined between 1840 and 1920 in the coastal town of Whitby, England. Jet appears black and was worked into jewelry and beads by hand that could be polished to a high shine. Used in prehistoric times for ornaments and made popular in the modern era by Queen Victoria during her long mourning period.

 

Jubilee Cut

            A diamond cut named in honor of Queen Victoria’s Jubilee, 1897. This diamond is cut in such a way that it is pointed at the top and the bottom with elaborate facet patterns.

 

K

 

Keeper Ring

            A type of guard ring. A keeper ring is meant to be worn with another ring to keep that ring in place. The English variety is comprised of a few bands twisted together in a knot-like design.

 

King Fisher Feather Jewelry

            Articles of jewelry decorated with the iridescent blue feathers of King Fisher Birds. Usually mounted flat on a thin gold or silver surface most commonly used on hair pins but also used in brooches and earrings. These pieces have been made in China since the 18^th century.

 

Knife Edge Band

            A style detail popularly used in 1940s engagement rings. The side of the band comes to an edge all around the circumference.

 

L

 

Lace Pin

           A small brooch made for the specific purpose of holding delicate folds of lace, also known as Fichu. Worn at the throat the small brooch is made with a curved design and long pin to gather the folds of lace behind it.

 

Lapel Watch

           A popular way for a woman to wear a watch in the 1^st half of the 20^th century. A pendant watch is hung from a brooch or a chatelet brooch on a lapel or the upper left or right side of a blouse. These watches are hung from their bottom so when one looks at the time the watch is the right way up. The style of wearing a watch was typical for nurses as well.

 

Lava Jewelry

            Popular in the 19^th century, Lava from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius was carved into cameos and intaglios. These “gems” were set in many types of metal from the cheapest base metals to silver and karat gold. Primarily carved in Italy the colors range from browns, grays, blues, greens, and a mustard yellow.

 

Lavalier

           A small pendant suspended from a chain, most popular in the first quarter of the 20^th century.

 

Lead Crystal

          Colorless transparent glass made with 24% (half lead) or 30% (full lead) lead oxide. The introduction of lead enhances the refractive index of glass. It is usually faceted for beads but was also molded and carved.

 

Leaf

          An extremely thin sheet of metal, usually .005mm thick, thinner than foil.

 

Limoges Enamel

          A type of enamel work on copper, similar to champlevé. Made in Limoges France first in the 12^th and 13^th centuries, infrequently used in jewelry until the 19^th and 20^th centuries.

 

Line Bracelet

           A flexible bracelet made of a line of gemstones with little embellishment.

 

Link Bracelet

           A bracelet made of individual links connected together using some type of ring.

 

Locket

           A box, of sorts, hinged and made to be worn suspended on a chain, set in a bracelet, or in a ring. It can be in all varieties of shapes and sizes and designs, a popular jewel type for centuries, made to hold a sentiment, a lock of hair, a photo, or a love token.

 

Lost Wax Process

           The art of carving a jewel in wax which is then placed in mold material and when the molten precious metal is poured into the mold, the wax melts, the metal replacing it and creating an exact copy of the wax carving.

          

Love Knot

           Found frequently in Victorian love token jewelry the love knot represents a love with no ending. 

 

Lucite

           A type of plastic created in 1937 by DuPont. Strong and transparent and used for fashion jewelry since its introduction.

 

Lustre

           A shimmer on the flat surface of a gem or metal that results from light striking the surface.      

 

M

 

Mabé Pearl

           A type of early cultured pearl created by Mikimoto in 1896 by inserting an irritant in an oyster and creating a blister in the shell which is then cut out and backed with mother of pearl for use in jewelry.

 

Macle

           A rectangular twinned natural crystal of diamond that is flat.

 

Maltese Cross

           A cross having four arms of equal length that widen as they extend with a curved indented end creating two points on the end of each arm. It was named after a religious order who used the cross as their symbol and were headquartered in Malta.

 

Marcasite

            A shiny silver-colored mineral that is faceted in a flat back domed style like a rose cut. It has been used extensively from the 18^th century to the present. Some of the best marcasite jewels were made in Europe in the Art Deco period usually in silver and often accompanied by colorful semi-precious gems.

 

Mark

           Generally, a mark on a jewel identifying the maker and or the metal fineness and origin.

 

Marquise

           An elliptical shape that is pointed on each end, usually used in reference to a gem, or the shape of a jewel.

 

Masonic Jewelry

           Articles of jewelry representative of the Freemasons.

 

Matrix

           The natural material in which a crystal or gemstone is embedded, most often referenced when discussing Turquoise.

 

Medallion

           A flat circular pendant meant to be suspended from a chain.

 

Melee

          Small diamonds used as accent stones, they can be single or full-cut.

 

Melon Bead

           A bead whose shape is globular and ribbed, they can be gold, as in Etruscan Revival, carved gemstone or molded glass.  

 

Mexican Silver

           This term refers to jewelry made in the 20^th century mostly in Taxco Mexico using the indigenous silver and gems found in the surrounding mountains.

 

Mikimoto

            Mikimoto developed cultured pearls in 1892 by manually inserting an irritant into a pearl oyster to force it to create nacre around the irritant thus creating a pearl. In 1908 Mikimoto patented the spherical cultured pearl.

 

Millefiori

            Italian. Literally a thousand flowers. A type of glass made using canes of little flowers, shaped into beads and cabochon-shaped “gems” for use in jewelry.

 

Mille-grain

             French. Literally A Thousand Grains. A style of decoration made using a knurling tool on metal edges. A knurling tool has indentations making the pattern, the decoration can also be made by applying tiny beads of metal by hand. Often used as a gem-setting technique.

 

Mine Cut  

            Also referred to as Old Mine and Miners cut. A term introduced at the end of the 1800s to describe the cuts of diamonds from the Brazilian mines. Distinguished by large open culets and high tables.

 

Miniature

             A small hand-painted portrait worn in and on jewelry.

 

Mississippi River Pearls

             A freshwater pearl found in the Mississippi River in mussels. The pearls are usually small and have an irregular shape, popular for use in American jewelry most commonly used as a dangle from the popular small pendants referred to as lavaliers. Freshwater pearls can also be found in the Tennessee River.

 

Mizpah Jewelry

           A popular type of sentimental Victorian Jewelry. A Hebrew word, Mizpah translates to Watch Tower and refers to a passage from Genesis, May the lord watch between me and thee when we are absent one from another.

 

Moissanite

           Originally discovered in 1893 by the French chemist Henri Moissan in rock samples from a meteor crater. Moissanite is a silicon carbide, it became popular as an alternative to diamonds in the late 1990’s.

 

Mosaic

            A decorative scene created using tiny pieces of glass cane cut into small slices and arranged to create flowers, animals, nature scenes, and landmarks.          

 

Mother of Pearl

            The hard smooth iridescent lining of a mollusk shell used in jewelry design.

 

Mounting

            The metal framework in which gemstones are set to make jewelry.

 

Mourning Jewelry

           Jewelry specifically made or worn to remember a loved one who has died, these jewels take many forms and were commonly worn until the 20^th century.

 

Muff Chain

            An extra-long chain made to loop around the neck and clasp inside a fur muff. Popular beginning in the 18^th century, a muff is a cylindrical item of fur made to keep hands warm in cold weather.

 

N

 

Nacre

           The iridescent outside of a pearl created by the secretions of certain mollusks.

 

Naja

           Navajo. A horseshoe or crescent-shaped pendant that is suspended from a squash blossom necklace, attached to a horse bridle, or suspended as a pendant.

 

Navette

           A shape with curved sides and pointed ends. See also, Marquis.

 

Négligée

           French. A flexible chain of beads, pearls, or links of precious metal that is hung or looped around the neck having no clasp and usually terminating in tassels on each end.

 

Netsuke

           Japanese. An ornamental pendant fastened to the end of the cord which suspends a pouch from an Obi.

 

Niello

           An inlay made of metallic sulfides that is used in a similar way as champlevé enamel. Usually used on silver jewelry and small decorative objects it has a lovely gunmetal color when polished. Niello can be found on Bronze Age non-jewelry items, on Anglo-Saxon pieces and was also used in Gothic Jewelry and some Renaissance items. Used in Russia in the 19^th century.

 

O

 

Oil and Vinegar

            A technique of foiling quartz giving it a striking pale yellow and orangish coloring, most common in French jewels of the late 1700s.

 

Ojime

           Japanese. A sliding bead of great artistic beauty used on the cords between an Inro and Netsuke that serves as the toggle to tighten and loosen the cord.

 

Onyx

            A banded black and white agate in the Chalcedony family. If reddish brown bands occur instead of black it is Sardonyx.

 

Operculum

            A shell-like plate found at the rear of the shell of the sea snail’s shell, that was polished and used as a decorative element in jewelry in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries.

 

Overlay

            The technique of cutting a design into one piece of silver and then attaching it atop another piece of silver, popular in Mexican silver and Native American designs.

 

P

 

Painted Enamel

            Used on costume jewelry, cold painted enamel isn’t really enamel, although commonly referred to as such, it is a painting technique used extensively in the mid 20^th century on base metal and sterling silver costume jewelry.

 

Palladium

           First widely used when the popular precious metal Platinum was reserved solely for the war effort in the US in 1942. After the war ended Platinum resumed its place as the favored white precious metal although in recent years Palladium has become popular again. Palladium is a similar white gray in color to Platinum although it is lighter in weight. Palladium is part of the metals group which includes Rhodium, Iridium, Platinum and Ruthenium.

 

Parcel Gilt

            A technique of partially gilding silver to highlight design elements.

 

Parure

            A set of jewelry with four or more matching pieces. Such suites became popular in the late 16^th century and then again in the 19^th century.

 

Paste

           A blanket term for different types of glass which was faceted to show its exceptional brilliance and set into various metals from gold and silver to base metals. It has been used since the 15^th century, reaching the height of fashion in the mid 18^th century. The introduction of lead into glass made it harder and thus easier to facet and polish. It was a popular sparkly diamond substitute from the 15^th century until the 1940’s.

 

Påte de Verre

            French, meaning glass paste. Produced by grinding glass to a powder and then adding a flux medium to make it easily melted and then adding color to it. It could then be added into molds for “Gems” and beads before adding another color of molten glass thus creating a jewel like look. Most commonly found in “coral” “jade” and “turquoise” påte de verre was widely used in France in the Art Nouveau period for a luxurious look in Costume jewels. This technique was also used in Ancient Greece to simulate gemstones in rings.

 

Patina

           A “discoloration” that occurs on most metals after long periods of time. They will be different depending on the metal. See also: Tarnish, and Bloom.

 

Pavé

          Literally paved. The practice of setting gems and diamonds so close together the surface appears to be paved in gems.

 

Pavilion

          The row of facets below the girdle of a gemstone or diamond.

 

Peg Setting

           A way of setting a pearl by ½ drilling the pearl and mounting it on a peg on a jewel or ring.

    

Pear Shape

           A term used to describe gems and pearls in a drop shape where one end is larger than the other.

 

Perfume Jewelry

             A style of jewelry made to hold a bit of perfume-soaked cotton. A style most commonly found in earrings, but occasionally necklaces and bracelets.

 

Peruzzi Cut

             A diamond cut, named after Vincenzio Peruzzi. A cushion cut with an octagonal table surrounded on the crown by 32 facets and with 24 facets on the pavilion as well as an open culet.

 

Pietra Dura

           Italian. Literally hard stone. Refers to hard stone mosaics, used in jewelry and furnishings popular in the 19^th century.

 

Pinchbeck

           An alloy of copper and zinc invented by Christopher Pinchbeck in 1720. Resembling gold, but much lighter in weight, it became popular for use in inexpensive jewelry. It was at times gilded with gold and as the gilding wore off the color of the pinchbeck being so similar to the gold there was a barely visible difference.

 

Piqué

          French. A style of decorating tortoise shell with tiny bits of gold, silver and or mother of pearl. Introduced in the 17^th century by Laurentini, a Neapolitan jeweler. After the 1760s Piqué was made by skilled craftsmen in Birmingham England, in the 1870s it began being mass produced and popular with the middle class.

 

Platinum

            The early commercial use of Platinum dates to the 1890s and the invention of the acetylene torch, Platinum requires a higher temperature than Gold to melt it and earlier torches were simply not hot enough.

Fineness

The term Fineness denotes the proportion of fine metal to metal alloys found with a specific sample of precious metal. In the case of platinum, fineness is measured in one thousand parts to a whole. For example, a sample of pure platinum in its natural, unadulterated state is one thousand parts Platinum and zero parts alloys, or 1000 grade Platinum. Once alloys are added to the Platinum, this ratio changes. If this sample’s one thousand parts is now comprised of nine hundred parts platinum and 100 parts alloys, the platinum is 900 grade platinum. Platinum predating 1960 is often simply marked 10% Irid. as that is what it is alloyed with meaning it is 900 parts or 90% Platinum. Modern Platinum is often simply marked 900 or 950 denoting the amount of Platinum present and not the alloy.

 

Plique å jour

            French. An enamel technique which creates a stained-glass effect. Although the method was discovered in the 15^th century and used in the Renaissance era it was popularly introduced in France circa 1900.

 

Pocket Watch

             A watch made to be held in the pocket of a vest or the small pocket in trousers made for the purpose. In most instances it was worn with a watch chain or a watch pull.            

 

Poison Ring

             A ring with a hinged compartment, historical and literary references say these compartments were used for poison. It is more likely they were used in a similar fashion to lockets and pomanders to hold love tokens or perfume.

 

Poissarde Earrings

           (French) Fishwife. As with many styles that became popular throughout history these earrings were 1^st worn by the wives of fisherman while selling their wares at the Parisian market, thus their name. Stylish from the 1790s to the early 1800s, these earrings have the shape of an elongated hoop with a decorative front, sometimes gem set. There is often an open loop at the top of the back to balance the weight and keep the earrings facing correctly.

 

Portrait Diamond

            A diamond cut in such a way that a viewer can see clearly thru it without distortion or refraction. Commonly used to cover a portrait.

 

Posy Holder

             A small cone shaped jewel for holding a little nosegay of fragrant flowers. In the 19^th and 20^th century they were usually worn as brooches.

 

Posy Ring

              An early love token in the form of a band ring with a quaintly worded rhyming phrase, a declaration of affection. Usually on the inside of the band but occasionally in the earlier examples on the outside and at times both inside and out. The earliest examples are 14^th century, but popular well into the 17^th century.

 

Princess Cut

              Princess cut diamonds gained popularity in the 1980’s-90’s. This cut appears square from the face but are actually shaped like inverted pyramids with chevron patterns on the underside of the cut with pointed corners.

 

Provenance

              The source and history of ownership of an object whether a gem or a jewel. An important provenance, or previous owner can greatly increase the value of an item.

 

Puzzle Ring

                A band style ring made with several interconnected bands which form a single hoop when properly connected together. When disassembled they can be quite difficult to get back together.

 

Pyramid Cut

              An early style of cutting a diamond. Made by cutting the natural octahedral crystal in half at the middle, creating two pyramid cut stones, and polishing it.

 

Q

 

Queen Anne Earrings

              Queen Anne earrings are recognizable by their distinctive style. Two chubby ovals set on their sides sit one atop the other, the backs being domed, with little decorative squares or florets tucked into the area to the sides where the ovals join. The original ear wires are back loaders and will have a loop to tie into your hair or wig, the materials vary but are most commonly colorful or clear foil-back crystal. Popular in the reign of Queen Anne 1702-1714.

 

Quizzing Glass

             A frame with a short handle ending in a ring which holds a magnifying glass, they can be wonderfully ornate or quite simple, meant to be worn on a long chain around the neck. Popular in the Georgian era.

 

R

 

Regard Ring

              A style of ring made using a variety of gemstones to spell out words in the same style as acrostic rings. Regard being the most common of these words given as a love token or a token of Regard. Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond, the first letter of each gem spelling Regard.

 

Reliquary

              A small receptacle made specifically to hold a religious relic. They can be in the form of a pendant a cross or a small box. The more important the relic the more elaborate the reliquary.

 

Repoussé

              An age-old technique used to transfer a dimensional design onto metal. This technique can be done using hammers and other hand tools or using a die that has been created with the image you wish to transfer and then the metal is laid on it and tools are used to transfer the design onto the metal. Both of these techniques result in a raised design that is often further embellished on the front of the item using more delicate hand tools.    

 

Reproduction

              A close copy of a specific item or an era, without the intent to deceive. Reproductions can also be a Revival if it becomes fashionable and widely commercial.

 

Reverse Intaglio

              A crystal cut in a cabochon that is carved with an incised design on its flat back, at times painted in great detail and backed with mother of pearl. Originating in Belgium and England in the 1860s.

 

Rhinestone

              The original use of the term Rhinestone referred to small shiny quartz crystals found in the Rhine River primarily in Austria. The term has come to encompass all shiny glass foil-backed costume jewelry gems.

 

Ribbon Necklace

              A necklace in the form of a ribbon tied around the throat suspending one or more jeweled pendants. Such necklaces were popular in the early 18^th century.

 

Riviére

              A type of necklace that is comprised of matching gemstones, individually set without other ornamentation. Some more elaborate versions of this style have a similar gemstone suspended from each stone. This style of necklace typically sits close to the throat.

 

Rondelle

              A thin circular disc-shaped bead made of metal or gemstone. In the mid 20^th century rondelles were made of metal with channel set rhinestones, they were also produced in precious metal with precious gems and diamonds.

             

Rose Cut

              A style of cutting a diamond, or other transparent gemstone. The facets on rose cuts vary widely in shape, number, and size, the dome can be low or high or anything in between. All rose cuts will have a flat back and the facets in a dome across the top.

 

Rough

              The description given to a diamond or gemstone before it is cut.

 

Rutile

              A brilliant lustrous mineral found as needle like inclusions in other gemstones.

 

S

 

Safety Chain

              A short chain attached to a necklace or bracelet to act as a safety if the jewel becomes unclasped.

 

Saint-Esprit Cross

              French. Literally the cross of the Holy Ghost. Taking the form of a dove suspended upside down, it was popularly worn by French Peasant women in the 18^th century.

 

Saint George and the Dragon

              A popular motif since the 16^th century, depicting St George on a horse with a spear slaying a dragon. This motif was quite popular in the 19^th century and some great examples were made.

 

Sand Casting

              A process of casting molten metal in sand, popular in 20^th century Native American jewelry.

 

Sardonyx

              A variety of onyx that is marked by evenly spaced bands of Sard in colors of browns and white. Often used to make hardstone cameos.

 

Sautoir

              French. A long necklace usually extending down below the waist. Often with a pendant or tassel.

 

Scarab

             A stylized representation of a dung beetle made in Egypt of a variety of materials. Often with an amuletic incised design on the flat back. The quality and detail of the design can vary widely from the barest hint of the form to beautifully detailed. They were worn set in jewelry and as funerary objects.  

 

Scaraboid

              A Greek modification of the Egyptian Scarab, being of the same ovoid shape but with only the flat back being engraved. These were made in the late 6^th and 5^th century BCE.

 

Schmuck

              German. Literally Jewelry, usually used in Germany and Austria in reference to inexpensive costume jewelry of elaborate design.

 

Scottish Pebble Jewelry

              Jewelry made in Scotland since the mid 1800s using small pieces of agate and granite set into sterling and occasionally gold. The stones are set using pitch and the metal is often beautifully engraved. Brooches, earrings and fabulous gate bracelets with intricately set lock clasps are some of the pieces you may find. Read our blog on the subject for a deep dive.  hyper

 

Screw Back

             A type of earring back for non-pierced ears. There is a small dome of metal on the back of the earring which attaches to the screw back with a curve of metal which goes under the earlobe, you can adjust the security of the earring to suit you by tightening or loosening the screw. Introduced circa 1894.

 

Seal Ring

             A finger ring with a device on the front. The design is carved or incised on the surface of the ring in the metal or on a gemstone or glass set into the ring. The designs vary widely from a signet with entwined initials, a family crest, or a coat of arms. The seal can be used to impress wax on a letter or the early tradition of using it to authenticate a documents signature.

      

Seed Pearl

             A natural variety of tiny pearls found in the Persian Gulf and Indian Oceans and quite popular in Victorian Jewelry. The tiny pearls were drilled and strung together on horsehair, half drilled and set on tiny pegs, or cut in half and set pavé across the surface of a jewel.

 

Shakudo

            A technique used by Japanese metalworkers of inlaying a black copper alloy with other metals such as colored gold and silver. Popular in jewelry in the 18^th century and early 19^th century, prior to this the artform was used to decorate Samurai Sword hilts.

 

Shank

            The back of the band of a finger ring.

 

Shell Cameo

            A variety of Cameo carved from a mollusk shell, popular in the 19^th and 20^th century, often carved in Italy.

 

Shirt Studs

             Decorative removeable buttons worn in the buttonholes that show above a vest, often matching the cufflinks.

 

Shoe Buckle

            Buckles made in pairs to decorate, shoes, they attach at the vamp. Opulent buckles made of precious metal set with gemstones or paste were a popular fashion statement for the well to do for several centuries, most notably the 17^th and 18^th centuries. They came back in fashion in the early 20^th century and were made in a wider variety of materials making them affordable for the masses.

 

Shoulder

            The part of a finger ring to either side of the center stone.

 

Siam Jewelry

            Sterling silver jewelry designed with dancers, elephants and other traditional themes. There is usually enamel work on these pieces, most often a gunmetal color but occasionally a color such as blue, green, or red.

 

Signet Ring

            A style of ring with a heavy tapered band and a flat top. The most common and original design of a Signet Ring is a flat top with initials. It became popular in the early 20^th century to set stones in the flat tops of signet rings in place of the initials.

 

Silesian Wire Work

            Finely woven highly detailed wire work jewelry made from the late 1700s to the early 1800s in Silesia, a part of Germany at the time.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Silver

A metal that is medium heavy, malleable, and ductile. Although Gold was the common choice for fine jewelry throughout most of history, silver became widely used in the 18^th century. Commonly backed with gold to keep tarnish, a blackish film silver acquires when in contact with air, off of the wearers skin and clothing. Pure silver is quite soft and so it is commonly alloyed to make it more durable.

            Fineness

The term Fineness denotes the proportion of fine metal to metal alloys found with a specific sample of precious metal. In the case of silver, it is measured in one thousand parts to a whole. For example, a sample of pure silver in its natural, unadulterated state is one thousand parts silver and zero parts alloys, or 1000 grade silver. Once alloys are added to the silver, this ratio changes.

Many ratios of silver fineness are found throughout history and the world, I will give you the most common examples here.

By far the most common is Sterling Silver which is 925 parts out of 1000, it may be marked Sterling or 925. In Taxco Mexico early 20^th century jewelry was made using silver that was 980 parts silver and 20 parts alloy, it is simply marked 980. In several European countries including France 800 silver was common, French jewelry is hallmarked with a Boars head to represent this fineness and the simple mark of 800 is used elsewhere. In Great Britain Sterling silver is marked with a Lion Passant. Antique Chinese Jewelry was commonly made in pure silver marked 1000 but be aware it is not unusual for some Antique Chinese pieces to be silver plated on copper.

 

Single Cut

              A diamond cut usually used on melee diamonds. The cut is a simpler version of a round brilliant with only a row of eight facets around the table and eight on the pavilion.

 

Slide Chain

              A decorative metal piece which slides along a chain. Usually used on a watch chain, either a man’s vest chain or a long ladies watch chain, the slide moves along the chain and stays in place. Slides are lined with cork which is what makes them both able to slide along the chain and stay where you put it. Popular in the last half of the 19^th century.

 

Snake Jewelry

            The snake theme in jewelry has been popular for hundreds of years, most recently in the Victorian era. In the 1800s, Snake rings wound around fingers in tokens of eternal love and snake brooches held gemstones in their mouths with sparkling eyes, snakes formed frames holding fobs they and burst thru the fronts of lockets. Snakes are a dynamic and fabulous design.

 

Soldering

            The process of joining metal together by inserting solder, a metal that melts at a lower temperature than the metals to be joined having the same fineness of the metal to be soldered, and heating so that they join together. Soldering can be done using a torch or a laser machine.

 

Solitaire

             A single stone design for an engagement ring which became popular in the late 1800s when larger and finer diamonds became more readily available. The term doesn’t just apply to a ring it can also apply to a pendant with a single stone.

 

Sølje

            Norwegian. A brooch of silver filigree decorated with “spoons”, curved pendants in rounds or ovals with the concave facing front, traditionally worn by a bride for her wedding.

 

Split Ring

             A type of ring used to suspend charms, fobs and chains. Split rings are made by sawing a solid ring in a spiral like fashion similar to a key ring, things can be slid onto the ring thru the splits and are securely held on the ring.

 

Stanhope

             A Stanhope is a tiny lens with a micro-photograph on it. These little secret pictures were inserted in jewelry and became a popular novelty from the mid 19^th century well into the 20^th century. The pictures can only be seen when held close to the eye with a light source behind it. The pictures run the gamut from naughty peep shows to the lord’s prayer, and the jewelry was made from simple Aluminum to fancy Gold.

 

Step Cut

             This cut is characterized by facets arranged as parallel lines to one another on all four sides, because of this the facets resemble steps. This cut is used on a rectangle or square gemstone or diamond.

 

Steuben Jewelry

              Jewelry made in the 20^th century by Steuben Glass Company of clear or colored Crystal Glass.

 

Stick Pin

              A type of jewel crafted with a straight pin, about 2” long with a decorative top often set with gemstones or diamonds. Made to be worn on a lapel or a scarf and popular from the late 1800s to 1940.

           

Stomacher

              A large triangular decorative jewel made to be worn on a woman’s bodice extending from décolletage or below to the waistline. The most common were ribbon and floral designs, some could be separated into several pieces to be worn as brooches.

 

Stone Settings

Stone settings are used for securing and displaying gemstones. There are a wide variety of stone settings, each offering different visual effects and degrees of security.

Belcher Setting

            A style of setting where the prongs that hold the stone are an integrated part of the ring.

            Bezel Setting

A way of setting a stone that completely encloses the girdle (edge) of a gem in metal.

Basket Mount

A basket mount is a setting that resembles a basket, formed from vertical prongs banded horizontally by one or more thin strips of metal. A stone is cradled in the basket-shaped mount and secured by the prongs. The basket mount is an especially popular setting because allows a great deal of light to pass through the stone, displaying it to its most beautiful advantage.

Channel Setting

A way of stone setting that is commonly used on a row of gems. The gems are set next to each other and an edge of metal comes up and over the side of the row giving a seamless look.

Claw Setting

A type of prong setting which utilizes long pointy “claws” to hold the gem in its setting.

            Gypsy Setting

Gypsy setting, also known as a “shot” or “burnish” setting, describes a setting in which gemstones are mounted flush with the metal, seated just below its surface. An engraved star shape may surround the stone, created when the jeweler pushes metal towards the stone to form a prong or bead setting. The gypsy setting is ideal for softer stones as the flush mounting offers increased protection from wear.

Pavé Setting

Literally paving stone setting where the surface of a jewel is covered in gemstones.

Prong Setting

            A prong setting uses prongs, small metal hooks or tines, to set a stone within a jewel’s head or mounting. Typically, four or six prongs are used to clasp a stone in place like a claw. Prongs offer versatility in stone setting, securing both the prominently displayed stone of a traditional solitaire engagement ring and the many small stones used in a subtle pavé piece. A prong setting allows more-light to travel through the stone than other settings which makes them a popular choice for engagement rings.       

 

Strass

              A lead glass paste that was used to simulate translucent gemstones. Named after Georges Strass who lived near Strasbourg in the early 1700s where he learned to make jewelry and faux gems. The brilliance of this new leaded glass sparkled so brilliantly that it was widely used to imitate diamonds.

 

Stuart Crystal Jewelry

  Jewelry made to show support for Charles Stuart when he was in exile. The jewelry is characterized by square step side crystal set atop pinkish foil with small twisted gold wire ciphers. Most commonly found are rings, and cuff links most earrings seen today are made from cufflinks, as the Stuart pieces were originally worn by men. Charles, also called Bonnie Prince Charlie was in exile and living in Scotland, the jewelry was made in the 1700s.

 

Stud Earrings

             An earring for pierced ears that is attached to a post and sits directly on the earlobe it is held in the ear with a clutch that is pushed on from the back, the posts can also be threaded with a screw on clutch. Introduced in the late 1800s.

 

Swarovski Crystal

             Founded in 1895 by Daniel Swarovski in Austria. By 1911 they were not only cutting crystals they were making their own leaded glass. Precision cutting techniques and a 32% lead content gives Swarovski crystals extra sparkle.

 

Swivel Ring

             A ring style popular in the 1920s to 1940s. The face of the ring swivels in the frame at the top of the ring allowing for a choice of two looks. These were most commonly onyx on one side and a shell cameo on the other.

 

Synthetic Gems

           The process to create credible substitutes for colored gemstones began in the 1800s. Commonly referred to as Lab Grown as well as Synthetic.

           Emerald

           An early attempt to create synthetic emeralds was made in 1890 and resulted in crystals too small to be used. A later attempt to use the Verneuil furnace also failed because the substance fused as glass and not in a crystalline form. Finally successful in 1928, using the hydrothermal process in Frankfurt, and eventually in 1934 a synthetic emerald of commercial size was created in Germany using the flux fusion process. This success was quickly followed in 1935 by Chatham in San Francisco California, to this day Chatham remains a large distributor of their own synthetic gems.

           Ruby

           The first precious gems to be successfully created in a lab. First attempted in France in 1837, by 1877 thin plate like crystals were successfully formed by French chemists Frémy and Freil. Later Frémy and Auguste Verneuil produced crystals large enough to be cut as rose cuts but not enough for commercial use. The eventual success of creating commercially viable Rubies in a lab happened in 1885 using the Verneuil Furnace process. Today’s synthetic rubies are still produced using a modification of that process. Also used in modern lab ruby production is the flux fusion process.

           Sapphire

           Synthetic lab grown Sapphires were produced in 1910 using the Verneuil furnace process. Earlier experiments used cobalt oxide which resulted in synthetic spinel rather than sapphires. Popular and affordable synthetic sapphires became a common accent stone in Art Deco filigree jewelry.

 

T

 

Table Cut

            A diamond cut created by removing the natural points of the octahedral crystal leaving a flat square or rectangular table and a flat square culet on the other end. Four abutting isosceles triangle shaped facets sloping upward and four downward from the girdle. This cut began in the 15^th century and continued into the 17^th century until the introduction of the rose cut, mid 17^th century.

          

Taille d’épargne

           (French) Literally, saving cut. A technique of removing metal to place enamel directly in the surface of the jewel, a variation of Champlevé, the incised lines are filled with enamel. Most commonly found in 19^th century jewelry, with black enamel, in affordable mourning jewelry. Also referred to as Black Tracery Enamel.

 

Tassie

           Tassies are glass intaglios introduced by James Tassie (1735-1799). They commonly featured sayings or portraits of famous or royal persons, at times they were a kind of political cartoon. They were popular souvenirs in the 18th and early 19th century. Tassie eventually became the common name for any pressed glass intaglio.

Tie Clip

            A decorative bar with a hinged clip back that holds a neck tie.

 

Tie Tac

            A decorative stud with a short sharp sturdy pin to its back to put thru a necktie and keep it in place, a clutch style clasp holds the pin on.

 

Torpedo Earrings

            An earring style popular in the Georgian era found in most metals from Gold to Silver to Pinchbeck. The earrings shape is evident in their name. The drop which hangs suspended from a decorative top is a long exaggerated pendeloque. These graceful drops were sometimes decorated with applied designs or impressed patterns and could be taken from their tops in the style of fashionable Day and Night earrings so the tops could be worn alone during the day.

 

Tortoise Shell

            An organic material that is obtained from the horny top plates of certain marine turtles. A translucent brown, or a paler whiskey color, the shell was a desirable material for jewelry in the Victorian era. The jewelry was crafted by heating and molding the shell.

 

Translucent

            A translucent gem permits the transmission of light in a diffused manner so that objects and writing behind the gem cannot be clearly seen.

 

Transparent

            A transparent gem has the ability of transmitting light thru them without diffusion and allows for objects and writing to be seen thru the gemstone. If semi-transparent the object or writing will be slightly blurred.

 

Tremblant

           (French) Literally Trembling. A jewel, usually a brooch, hair ornament, or aigrette, is made in such a way, usually with a small spring, that part of the jewel trembles with movement.

 

Tribal Jewelry/Ethnic Jewelry

           These terms are most commonly used when describing jewelry which is distinctive to the peoples who wear and make it. This is such a wonderful and varied type of jewelry I hope soon to have a detailed blog on it, but for now here are two examples. The Turkman tribe of Central Asia is known for their lovely fire gilded silver jewels beautifully hand engraved and set with carnelian, big cuff bracelets, long swinging earrings, and panels with dangling pendants. Moroccan jewelry is another wonderful example. Jewelry particular to Morocco, silver with bright enamels in blue, yellow and green usually set with brightly colored glass or gorgeous oxblood coral. They favor hinged bangles, disc shaped pendant earrings, and pectoral pendants with dangles of all sizes. Cloak pins of an impressive size are also a favorite.

          

Trilliant

           A triangular diamond cut with twenty-five facets on the crown and nineteen facets on the pavilion with a polished girdle. This cut was developed by Asscher in Amsterdam.

     

Triplet

           A composition stone made of three layers meant to imitate a genuine gemstone. One or two of the layers will be genuine with the third being used for color enhancement.

 

V

 

Vauxhall Glass

            Made in the Vauxhall glassworks in London. Noted for the flat backs of the glass pieces Vauxhall glass is highly reflective and was commonly used in affordable fashion jewelry from the Regency Period thru the late Victorian period.

 

Vermeil

           The term for silver gilded with gold.

 

Vinaigrette

            A small box or pendant which held scented vinegar, under a pierced gold grille, which was used to ward off faintness. They were always decorative and at times quite whimsical.

 

Vulcanite

             One of the popular materials used in fashionable “mourning” jewelry in the last half of the 1800s. Goodyear invented the process of “vulcanization” In 1839 and in 1851 he exhibited his rubber creations At the Great Exhibition of Works of Industry in London. Featuring an array of furniture, jewelry, medical equipment, and portraits painted on rubber canvas, he even exhibited rubber globes filled with helium, which became the first balloons.

 

W

 

Walrus Ivory

            Ivory from the tusks of walrus excavated from under the permafrost in Alaska; used in Indigenous Jewelry and tools.

 

Watch Chain

             A chain made specifically to hold a watch, there are many lengths and varieties, the style was dictated by the watch and the way in which it is to be worn.

      

Watch-Cock

           Watch-cocks are elaborately hand engraved brass plates that protected the mechanism in Verge watches. This type of watch mechanism was made from the 14^th century until the 19^th century when smaller more efficient watches were made. When these watches ceased being used the lovely hand engraved watch-cocks began being transformed into jewelry. It has been suggested that the elaborate designs were originally created to avert the evil eye and were continued later by craftsmen ignorant of the original purpose. This would help to explain why such beautiful art was hidden away in a watch case and not meant to be seen.

 

Watch Fob

            A decorative item meant to be suspended from a watch chain along with a watch. Watch fobs take many decorative forms.

 

Watch Key

           A small instrument for winding a pocket watch, often decorative as they were hung with the watch on the watch chain.

 

Watch Hook

           A hook that sometimes swivels and is easy to attach a pocket or pendant watch to and securely holds it until the watch is purposefully removed by pushing the hook lever in. These hooks came in many sizes and were suspended from all manner of watch chains. They have become a popular and fun addition to any chain for hanging charms, pendants, and lockets from.

 

Watch Pull

            A flat decorative pendant with a watch hook on one end. The hook attaches to the watch which goes in the watch pocket and the decorative pendant hangs out and is used to pull your watch out to check the time.

 

Wedding Band

           Standard band styles include the flat, half-round and knife-edge, terms which describe the exterior shape of the band.  A band that features a curved interior is called a comfort fit band.

The band is the oldest form of finger ring and remains the most common. The wedding band appears to have originated in ancient Egypt and its popularity persists to this day. The unbroken circle of a band represents eternity, which is why the band has historically been a symbol of enduring fidelity and friendship.

 

Wedgwood Jewelry

           Known for their decorative items and tableware Wedgwood also made jewelry. Beginning in 1730 Josiah Wedgewood created cameos and intaglios that were set in gold and silver frames, mounted as brooches, pendants, and fobs, the settings were frequently made by Matthew Boulton in Birmingham during the 1700s. Most collectible and difficult to find are the necklaces of Wedgwood beads in their lovely colors of lilac, sage green, pale blues, yellows and my personal favorite black basalt. Wedgwood continued creating pieces for jewelry into the 20^th century.

 

 White Gold

           White gold is made by using a variety of white metals as alloys to lighten and change the original yellow color of pure gold to a whiter hue. Depending on the amount of alloy used the karat/percentage changes. The karats are the same as what you will find in yellow gold, the most common being 10k, 14k, 18k. A US patent for White Gold was awarded to David Belias in 1926, although Belias started using white gold in their production of filigree rings earlier.

 

Window

           This refers to an area on a translucent colored gemstone where the color is much lighter and creates a “window” in the color saturation.

 

Witches Heart

           A heart which is slightly canted to one side at the bottom, the Witches Heart was given as a love token to symbolize being “bewitched” by the recipient.

 

Z

 

Zircon

           Clear and colorless Zircon is brilliant and sparkles with rainbows of light called fire. These attributes, and its high refractive index, account for the centuries of confusion between Diamonds and Zircons. Occurring in a wide variety of colors, yellow, green, red, brown, and blue. All of these unique qualities make Zircon a favorite of collectors and a unique choice for jewels and engagement rings.

           

Zoomorphic

            Artistic representations of animals or mythological animal human hybrids.

 

Zuni Petit Point

             A beautiful design style unique to the Zuni people. Characterized by the use of tiny beautifully cut turquoise stones in rounds, ovals and tear drop shapes each individually set in beautiful designs.